What happens when waves crash?

The fascinating phenomenon of wave breaking is explored in depth in this UNSW YouTube video. The visual display of waves crashing onto a shoreline captures the essence of their gentle yet powerful nature.

Upon closer inspection, it becomes evident that waves break in a unique manner. Rather than violently crashing onto the shore, they break gently, with the top of the wave spilling down the front in a smooth and fluid motion.

This characteristic spillage of the wave's top is what distinguishes it as a "spilling wave." The term accurately describes the graceful manner in which the wave dissipates its energy upon reaching the shoreline.

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The video provides valuable insights into the dynamics of wave breaking, showcasing the intricate balance between the wave's energy and the forces it encounters as it approaches the shore.